If you’re looking for an adventurous destination in Europe that is budget-friendly and still feels relatively untouched, consider northern Albania for your next solo trip. This region, known as the Albanian Alps, is one of the most unique places I’ve visited, with dramatic mountain scenery, remote villages, and some of the best hiking I’ve ever done.
I spent a full week traveling through northern Albania, starting in Shkoder, making my way through Valbona and Theth, with multiple days of hiking along the way and ending in the capital city Tirana. It was one of the most rewarding, but physically challenging parts of my 3 week Balkans trip.
This itinerary is definitely geared toward travelers who enjoy hiking. It includes three consecutive days of long hikes, covering over 8,000 feet of elevation gain, so it’s important to be relatively fit and comfortable hiking for multiple hours in remote locations. That said, you don’t need to do every hike in this itinerary to have an amazing experience. The only “required” hike is the Valbona to Theth trail, since it’s the main way to travel between the two towns without backtracking to Shkoder.
If you’re unsure which hikes are right for you, I’ll be breaking each one down in detail in my guide to the best hikes in northern Albania.
I also did this entire itinerary as a solo traveler, and it ended up being one of the most rewarding solo trips I’ve ever taken. While hiking in a remote place like northern Albania might sound intimidating at first, I found it surprisingly social, safe, and easy to navigate, especially when staying at hostels and guesthouses along the route.
Is Northern Albania Good for Solo Travelers?
Yes, Northern Albania is an excellent destination for solo female travelers. I felt comfortable every step of my solo trip to Albania.
Here’s a few reasons why I think Albania is perfect for solo travelers:
- It’s very safe. I felt completely safe throughout my time in northern Albania, including in Shkoder, Valbona, Theth and Tirana. Even in more remote areas, the locals were incredibly kind and welcoming, and there were always other travelers around.
- It’s surprisingly social. Even though I was traveling solo, I was rarely alone in Albania. Between staying at Wanderer’s Hostel in Shkoder and the guesthouses in Valbona and Theth, I met so many other travelers doing the exact same route.
- The hiking routes are easy to follow. The trails, especially the Valbona to Theth trek, are well-marked and filled with other hikers. It never felt isolated or unsafe.
- Hostels make logistics easy. I booked everything, from my stays to my transportation, through Wanderer’s Hostel, which made the entire experience easy and seamless. I didn’t have to worry about booking transfers between each destination because they organized almost everything for me.
1-week Northern Albania Itinerary for Solo Travelers
- Shkoder – 2 nights
- Valbona – 2 nights
- Theth – 2 nights
- Tirana – 1 or 2 nights
Shkoder
Stay 2 nights
This Northern Albania itinerary starts in Shkoder, known as the gateway to the Albanian Alps and the cultural capital of Northern Albania.
Day 1: Arrival in Shkoder
I arrived in Shkoder in the late afternoon after travelling by bus from Kotor, Montenegro. The city felt very different than the others I’d visited in Croatia and Montenegro: less polished and touristy, more local and chaotic, but in a good way.
One of the first things you should do when you arrive is take out cash, especially if you’re arriving from another country. Albania uses the Lek instead of the Euro (although many places seemed to accept both currencies). Once you leave Shkoder and head into Valbona and Theth, there are no ATMs, and most places only accept cash. You’ll have to pay for all your accommodations with cash when you arrive, so make sure you have enough to cover that plus extra expenses.
After settling in, spend the rest of the day walking around the city and getting your first taste of Albanian food. I ate at both Arti Zanave and Fisi Restaurant, two traditional Albanian restaurants, where I had my favorite meals of the trip. Both are great options, and they’re vegetarian-friendly as well.
If you’re staying at Wanderer’s Hostel, they host a family-style dinner every night, which is an easy way to meet other travelers. Many of them will be heading into the mountains on the same route as you, so it’s a great way to make friends before you leave.
Where to Stay in Shkoder
As you can tell I’ve mentioned the Wanderer’s Hostel a few times already in this itinerary, since that’s where I stayed in Shkoder. Not only that, but I also booked all of my accommodations and transportation in the Albanian Alps through them. They make the whole journey simple and doable, so I highly recommend staying there and planning your trip through them. It’s a great place for solo travelers wanting to meet people while in Albania
The Wanderer’s Hostel is popular and books up quickly, so here’s some other accommodations in Shkoder that I’d recommend for solo travelers:
- Shkodra Hostel – Another popular, social hostel that can help you book transportation through the Albanian Alps. They also offer day trips to the Alps if you’re short on time.
- CityCenterHotel Shkoder – If you prefer the comfort of a private room at a hotel, I highly recommend CityCenterHotel Shkoder. I stayed here for one night because I needed a break from hostel life, and it was still very affordable. It’s close to Wanderer’s Hostel, so you can still book your hiking route through them and use their transportation, while staying in a quiet private room down the road.
Day 2: Exploring Shkoder
Before heading into the mountains, I highly recommend spending a full day exploring Shkoder.
I started my day with a free walking tour of Shkoder, where I learned so much about the history of Albania and the importance of the city. Albania has such a complex history, especially with its communist past. The tour gave me a deeper appreciation for the country before heading out to explore the most remote regions. I especially loved learning about the religious diversity in Shkoder, exemplified by the coexistence of Muslim mosques, Catholic cathedrals and Orthodox churches throughout the city.
After the walking tour, I visited the Marubi National Museum of Photography, which I absolutely loved. As someone who enjoys photography, this was one of the most interesting museums I visited in all of the Balkans. It showcases historical photographs from Albania dating back over a century, and it gives a unique look into the country’s past.
I unfortunately didn’t end up doing this on my trip, but in the afternoon I recommend renting a bike and riding out to Lake Shkoder. Your accommodation will likely have bikes you can borrow, but if not there are many places you can rent bikes from, especially because Shkoder is known the “city of bicycles”. The ride to the lake is flat and easy, taking about 3 hours roundtrip. Once you get to the lake, it’s the perfect place to slow down and relax.
Valbona
Stay 2 nights
Day 3: Shkoder to Valbona
Although this is a travel day, its quite enjoyable because of the beautiful views along the way.
As mentioned earlier, I booked all of my transportation in the Albanian Alps through Wanderer’s Hostel, and I would 100% recommend doing the same. It made the entire process completely stress-free, especially since transportation logistics in northern Albania can be a bit confusing otherwise.
The day starts early, around 7 am, with a 2 hour minibus ride, followed by a 2 hour boat ride through the Shala River. The views from the boat ride were honestly incredible. The water is beautiful and the mountains rise up dramatically on either side of the river. There were almost do other boats out on the river, making for a very peaceful ride.
After the boat, there’s one final short bus ride into Valbona. As you get closer, the scenery becomes even more dramatic, with views of the Albanian Alps and snow-capped peaks in the distance. The bus driver will ask which guesthouse you’re staying at and drop you right there.
Where to Stay in Valbona
In Valbona, I stayed at Arben Selimaj Guesthouse, which was booked for me by Wanderers Hostel. There was a big group of other travelers from the hostel also staying there, about 20 to 30 people.
The guesthouse was simple but had everything we needed. Meals were included: family style breakfast and dinner, and a packed sandwich lunch you make yourself. I will note, this was not a luxury experience. There were only two bathrooms for 20-30 people, and at one point one of them stopped working. That meant all of us had to share one bathroom, which was in another building about 30 feet away. It was quite chaotic while all trying to get ready for our hikes at the same time with only one bathroom.
That said I think Arben Selimaj Guesthouse is one of the best options in Valbona for solo travelers on a budget, since it has dorm rooms for only €30 a night, including meals. But if you want to check out some of other guesthouses, here are a few good options:
- Rosi Peak Guesthouse – Affordable private rooms & located on the Rosni Peak trail, making it perfect if you plan on doing that hike.
- Guesthouse Skender Selimaj
- Guesthouse Rama
I arrived to my guesthouse around 2 pm, leaving the afternoon to relax and take in the views. I walked about 10 minutes to a restaurant to get lunch, since the guesthouse doesn’t serve lunch on the first day you’re there. There’s also a small stream near Arben Selimaj guesthouse where everyone was lounging and cooling off in the river water. It was a really nice place to hang out for the afternoon.
Day 4: Maja e Rosit Hike
The Maja e Rosit Hike to Rosni Peak was by far the hardest hike I did in Albania, but it was the most rewarding, especially since it did it solo.
The trailhead for this hike is located about 1 mile away from Arben Selimaj guesthouse. I was planning on walking this 1 mile, until the owner of the guest house offered to drive me to the trailhead. I was so grateful, because it gave me a much needed head start for what I knew was going to be a very long and difficult day.
Interestingly, I was the only one from my guesthouse doing this hike. Most people only stay in Valbona for one night, and just do the Valbona to Theth hike the next day, which is definitely the most popular one. So this day felt a bit more independent, which I actually really enjoyed as an introverted solo traveler.
The hike itself is around 10–12 miles out and back (depending on whether you hike all the way to the peak), with about 3,900 feet of elevation gain, and takes anywhere from 8–10 hours depending on your pace. The trail is clear but not really well marked, so I would definitely recommend downloading offline maps ahead of time. I used AllTrails, but a few people in Albania said that Maps.me is even better.
I started hiking around 8 am (from the trailhead) and reached the mountain pass around noon, which sits right on the border between Albania and Montenegro. You’ll know when you’ve reached it because you’ll suddenly be standing on a ridge with completely different landscapes on either side, and it’s one of the most surreal views I’ve ever seen.
Once I got to the pass, I chose not to continue all the way to the peak. From the pass, the views were already incredible, and I didn’t feel the need to push myself further for another mile of uphill climbing. If you do continue, just know it’s a longer and more demanding day.
On the entire hike, I only saw around 10 other people, so it definitely felt more remote compared to other hikes in the area. There were about 5 other people at the pass when I got there, which was really nice to see since I had spent the whole day hiking alone.
By the time I got back to the guesthouse around 3:30 pm, I was completely exhausted. I spent the rest of the evening resting, eating dinner, and mentally preparing for another full day of hiking the next day.
For a full breakdown of the Maja e Rosit hike, check out my post 3 Hikes to do in Northern Albania.
Theth
Stay 2 nights
Day 5: Valbona to Theth Hike
The Valbona to Theth trek is the most famous hike in Albania, and for good reason. The entire guesthouse woke up early that morning, all preparing to do the hike. Thankfully, the host drove all of us to the trailhead, which was probably about 2 miles from the guesthouse.
The hike is about 10 miles one way, with around 3,200 feet of elevation gain, and typically takes 6–8 hours. Compared to Rosni Peak, this hike felt more manageable. The trail is less steep overall and there are so many other hikers along the way. I ended up walking with different people throughout the day, which made the time pass quickly.
The first part of the hike is a gradual incline, before becoming steeper with switchbacks as you approach the pass. The views along the way are incredible.
At the top, you’ll see an Albanian flag marking the pass. From there, I highly recommend taking the short (but steep and slightly sketchy) path up to the viewpoint above. It’s a bit of a scramble, but the 360-degree views are absolutely worth it. Just be careful if you’re afraid of heights.
After the pass, it’s all downhill towards Theth. There’s a cafe you can stop at a couple miles after the pass where you can purchase drinks and snacks. I stopped there to eat my lunch and ordered a cold soda.
The descent towards Theth is long and steep, and I found the last few miles to be some of the hardest of the day. The path was totally exposed to the sun, and after 2 days of strenuous hiking, my knees were starting to feel it.
By the time I arrived in Theth, I was exhausted but so happy I had done it. I settled into my guesthouse and spent the rest of the day relaxing and chatting with the other travelers.
Where to Stay in Theth
In Theth, I stayed at Dreni Guesthouse, which was once again booked for me by Wanderers Hostel.
I really liked this guesthouse and found it to be a little nicer than the one in Valbona. The dorm rooms were big and clean and each had their own bathroom. The outdoor space was beautiful, with amazing views of the surrounding mountains. The hostel served food all day including a buffet breakfast and dinner, and during the day you could also order lunch.
You can book your stay at Dreni Guesthouse here, or check out these other guesthouses:
- Shpella Guesthouse Theth – affordable dorm rooms and private rooms
- Valter & Drita’s Guesthouse – a bit more upscale, featuring rooms with balconies
Day 6: Blue Eye Hike
After two long days of hiking, we have one more, but this hike is much easier and ends with a swim in a beautiful waterfall.
The Blue Eye hike is still pretty long, around 8–10 miles round trip, but with only about 1,000 feet of elevation gain it’s much easier. There’s also the option to take a taxi part of the way, which a lot of people choose to do.
I decided to walk the entire route to the Blue Eye in the morning, starting from my guesthouse. The trail starts out mostly flat, following a river, and gradually becomes more rugged as you get closer to the Blue Eye.
Eventually, you’ll reach two swimming spots, both with the most beautiful, clear, turquoise water. The first swimming spot is more like a stream with a bridge you can jump from, and the second is the actual Blue Eye, which is this incredibly vibrant blue pool with a waterfall.
I spent about an hour relaxing and swimming in the cold water. It was really rejuvenating after days of hiking.
On the way back, I was planning on taking a taxi most of the way, if I could find one. Thankfully, I ended up meeting someone on the trail who also wanted to take a taxi and there was a few waiting for passangers when we made it back to the road. So we shared the taxi and it ended up costing €10 per person. It saved me about 2 hours of hiking, so I think it was very worth it!
I got back to the guesthouse in the early afternoon and spent the rest of the day doing almost nothing. I ordered lunch from the guesthouse before taking a nap and waking up just in time for dinner!
Tirana
Stay 1 or 2 nights
Day 7: Return to Shkoder and Travel to Tirana (Optional)
If you booked through Wanderers Hostel like me, the transfer back to Shkoder leaves Theth around 11 am. So I spent my last morning in the Albanian Alps enjoying breakfast and the peaceful mountain views.
Once you arrive in Shkoder, you have a few options for where to go next to continue your travels in Albania or the Balkans. All of these are doable on the same day that you travel back from Theth, but it will be a long travel day. If you want to break up the travel, stay in Shkoder one more night, then continue your travels the next day
- Take a 2 hour bus to Tirana and explore Albania’s capital city, like I did
- Take a 4 hour bus to Kotor, Montenegro to explore another Balkans country
- Take a 5 hour bus to southern Albania to explore the beach towns of Himare, Sarande or Ksamil
Is Tirana worth visiting?
To be honest, Tirana wasn’t my favorite destination in Albania. I felt like I was able to see everything I wanted to in just half a day, and overall, it’s not the most visually impressive city. While Skanderbeg Square is nice, I didn’t find the rest of the city to be particularly beautiful or memorable.
That said, if you’re interested in learning about Albanian history, Tirana is definitely worth visiting. Places like Bunk’Art 2 offer a really powerful look into the country’s communist past, and there are other museums like Bunk’Art 1 (located a bit outside the city) and the House of Leaves where you can dive even deeper. After spending a week exploring Albania, I found it really interesting to learn more about what shaped it.
So if you’re flying in or out of Tirana, or passing through on your way between northern and southern Albania, I do think it’s worth stopping for a day. But if you’re short on time, I wouldn’t go out of your way to visit unless you really want to learn more about Albania’s history.
Day 8: Explore Tirana
Personally, I decided to stay in Shkoder for one more night, and then traveled to Tirana the next morning, just to break up the travel. I booked my bus to Tirana here.
I arrived in Tirana in the late morning and checked into Hotel Driti, which was a great, simple place to stay for one night. After dropping off my bags, I headed straight out to start exploring the city.
The first place I walked to was Skanderbeg Square, which is the main square in Tirana and the heart of the city. I walked passed the Opera and Ballet Theatre and the Et’hem Bey Mosque, one of the most important historical buildings in the city. I wanted to go inside the mosque, but unfortunately it seemed to be closed when I visited.
From there, I made my way to Bunk’Art 2, which ended up being the best thing I did in Tirana. This museum is built inside a real underground nuclear bunker from Albania’s communist era, and it gives a really powerful look into the country’s history. During the rule of Enver Hoxha, Albania was extremely isolated from the rest of the world, and hundreds of thousands of bunkers were built across the country in preparation for potential attacks.
Walking through Bunk’Art 2, you learn about the political regime, the secret police, and what life was like for Albanians during that time. It’s definitely a heavy experience, but it’s incredibly well done and really important for understanding the country. It’s a must-visit if you’re spending any time in Tirana.
After that, I walked over to Tirana Castle. Despite the name, it’s not a traditional castle that you can tour. It dates back to the Byzantine and Ottoman periods and was originally built as a fortress to protect the city. Today, it’s been transformed into a small, open-air area filled with restaurants and shops. It’s actually a really nice place to walk around, especially if you want to browse for souvenirs.
To end the day, I went to Oda Restaurant for dinner, which is known for serving traditional Albanian food. Since it was my last night in the country, I wanted to have one final local meal. I ordered a spinach and cheese pie along with a stuffed eggplant dish, and both were so good. It felt like the perfect way to wrap up my time in Albania.
The next day, I packed up and headed to the airport to fly home, after 3 amazing weeks in the Balkans.
