Hiking the Camino Portugués in May: What to Expect

When I walked the Camino de Santiago in early May 2024, I didn’t know exactly what to expect. I was about to spend over two weeks walking from Portugal to Spain with my backpack, my thoughts, and the sound of the ocean beside me.

I quickly learned that May is one of the most beautiful and rewarding months to walk this route. The weather is mild, the scenery is bursting with springtime color, and the trails are peaceful without being empty. There’s good chance you’ll get some rain, or a lot of it like I did, but the combination of quiet mornings, long days of sunlight, and lush, green landscapes made it completely worth it. Keep reading for everything you need to know about walking the Camino Portugués in May!

About the Camino Portugués

The Camino de Santiago is a centuries-old pilgrimage that ends at the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in northern Spain. There are many routes that lead there, but the Camino Portugués is one of the most popular. It can be started from Lisbon, Porto, or even closer to the Spanish border, depending on how long you want to walk.

There are three main variations of the Portuguese Way: the Central Route, which passes through historic inland towns; the Coastal Route, which follows boardwalks and seaside paths close to the Atlantic; and the Litoral Way, which “literally” hugs the shoreline. I mostly walked on the Litoral Way, while sometimes crossing to the Coastal Route a bit more inland. I loved this route because I could see, hear, and even dip my feet into the ocean. It’s a perfect choice if you’re looking for a mix of nature, small beach towns, and cultural charm.

For more info about my exact Camino route, read My Complete Coastal Camino Portugués Route & Stages. And for the history of the Camino and tips for first timers, read Everything I Wish I Knew Before Walking my First Camino de Santiago.

Camino Portugués in May

After finishing my Camino in early May, there were definitely some little things I wish I had known beforehand. So whether you’re planning your first Camino or returning for another route, here’s everything I wish I knew before walking the Camino Portugués in May, based on my own experience.

Weather

May is one of the best months to walk the Camino Portugués in terms of temperature. The temperatures are pleasant, usually between 50–70°F (10–21°C), which makes for comfortable walking weather. It’s warm enough to wear light layers most days, but not so hot that you’re sweating buckets and burning up in the sun, like you would be in the summer.

That being said, precipitation in northern Portugal and Galicia can be very unpredictable in Spring. It will almost definitely rain some days. On my Camino, it rained 10 out of 16 days. It was raining when I took my first steps in Porto, and it was raining when I finished in Santiago de Compostela. I always had my poncho in the side pocket of my backpack, so I can put it on as soon as it started pouring (which happened a lot).

On the trail I was so over the rain and some days felt like it was ruining my experience. But looking back it was all a part of the journey. When the rain passed, it usually brought a beautiful rainbow. And it made me really appreciate the warm days when the sun was on my face.

Despite the heavy rain, I never felt super cold, even when my feet were soaked. The air stays mild, and walking keeps you warm. For more about the rain gear I used on the trail, check out my Camino de Santiago Packing Guide.

Crowds

If you’re looking for a quieter Camino experience, May on the Portuguese route is perfect. The Litoral Coastal trail through Portugal felt peaceful and uncrowded. There were almost always other pilgrims around, but not big groups blocking the trail. There were a few stretches where I didn’t see anyone for an hour or two. But as someone who likes solitude, I didn’t mind. It gave me space to walk at my own pace, stop for photos, and enjoy the sound of the waves along the Coastal Route.

Once I crossed into Spain and reached Redondela, things started to feel busier. This is where the Coastal and Central routes of the Portugués merge, so you’ll find there’s a sudden jump in pilgrims. Even so, it never felt overwhelming. I’ve heard that by June and July, the Camino becomes significantly more crowded. So if you want that sweet spot between lively and peaceful, May is the month to go.

Accommodation Availability

One of my biggest concerns before starting was whether I’d be able to find a place to stay each night, so I booked almost all of my accommodations ahead of time. But as I walked and my route changed slightly, I cancelled a few and booked others just a day or two in advance. There were always accommodations available, at least if I booked the day before.

That said, if you prefer private rooms or highly rated albergues, I recommend booking more than a week ahead. Those tended to fill up first, and there were a few times when I had to settle for my second or third choice because the popular ones were already full.

I mostly stayed in private albergues and guesthouses rather than the public pilgrim ones, so I’m not sure how quickly the public albergues fill up in May (they are first come first serve and cannot be booked in advance). But from chatting with other pilgrims, it sounded like there was still good availability throughout May, as long as you arrived at a decent time. The benefit of walking in the shoulder season is that you get a good balance. You can stay spontaneous and flexible without the stress of everything being fully booked.

Scenery

The scenery on the Camino Portugués in May was absolutely stunning. The trail was lined with wildflowers in full bloom, and after so much rain, everything looked green and alive. The Litoral Coastal Route, especially, was breathtaking. I walked along long stretches of wooden boardwalks beside the Atlantic Ocean, past small fishing towns, while the views alternated between dramatic cliffs to peaceful beaches.

I loved having the ocean beside me almost every day. Even on the cloudiest mornings, it felt magical to walk with the sound of the waves in the background. On the few sunny, warm days I had, I went swimming in the ocean (or at least put my feet in). The water was freezing, but it felt amazing to dip my tired feet in the cold ocean after a long day of walking.

Long Days Compared to the Fall

One of the biggest perks of walking in May is how long the days are. The sun doesn’t set until around 8 pm in Portugal, and 9 pm once you reach Spain (because of the time change). Having so many daylight hours makes a huge difference on the Camino. You don’t have to rush in the mornings and you can take long lunch breaks without worrying about running out of light.

I’d say that this is the main benefit of walking in the spring rather than the fall. The fall is another great shoulder season option, with similar weather and crowd levels. But the sun sets much earlier, so you’ll have to leave earlier each day to ensure you make it to your destination before dark. In May you can truly take your time and enjoy every step of the journey.

Packing for Shoulder Season

Packing for May can be tricky because the weather changes from day to day, and sometimes hour to hour. I found that layering was key. I brought one of everything: a light jacket, a long-sleeve, a t-shirt, a tank top, shorts, and pants, and ended up using all of them. Some mornings I’d start off wearing all my layers, and by afternoon I’d be down to just my tank top and shorts.

Because the rain is unpredictable, a good rain jacket, waterproof backpack cover, and quick-dry clothing are essential. I also carried a lightweight fleece for cooler mornings and evenings. You definitely don’t need heavy winter gear, but you’ll still want to be ready for sudden rain or wind, especially along the coast. Think layers instead of bulk.

Is May a good time to walk the Camino Portugués?

To summarize, here are the pros and cons of walking the Camino Portugués in May. As you can see, as long as you don’t mind some rain, May is a great month to walk this Camino de Santiago route.

Pros of walking the Camino Portugués in May:

• Mild temperatures between 50–70°F (10–21°C)
• Fewer crowds than summer
• Lush greenery & wildflowers
• Long days of sunlight

Cons of walking the Camino Portugués in May::

• High chance of rain & unpredictable weather
• Too chilly for beach & swimming

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For more information about walking your first Camino de Santiago, check out my other helpful blog posts:

Everything I Wish I Knew Before Walking my First Camino de Santiago
Walking the Camino de Santiago Alone: My Solo Camino Portugues
Camino de Santiago Packing Guide: The most important essentials